Toulouse

As I've talked about in the past, I am exploring other possibilities where I might make a home. One option is France, and that's why I visited it last week. As I did last year in Hamburg, I used a housesitting service, which lets me take care of people's pets while staying in their homes for free. I applied for two positions in France during April, and received one, in Toulouse.

I was in Toulouse a year ago, but that was a touristy kind of trip, and this time I really wanted to learn more about day to day life, not what museums I could see. So I did my usual scouting trip process, which includes talking to other immigrants and using the buses to go to the very edges of the city. In addition, of course, I ate lots of French cakes.

I love the size of Toulouse and that it has a couple of big universities. This, for me, is really a sign of the academic and cultural vibe I'm going for. They also have a great public transportation system and the weather, at least in spring, was lovely. Now I just need to learn more about the disadvantages, like the legal processes I´d need to undertake.

The cats at my last petsitting gig did not like me at all (but I don´t think they liked anyone). These cats, named Paulette and Pacha, were very friendly. I miss pets a lot, and it was a delight to spend time with them. //

Los gatos de mi última función como “cuidadora de hogares” no me gustaban nada (creo que a ellos no les gustaba nadie). Pero estos gatos, que se llaman Paulette y Pacha, me gustaron mucho. Echo muchísimo de menos a las mascotas, y fue un placer pasar tiempo con ellos.

Gariguettes, the best strawberries that I have ever eaten. Sweet and soft, they turn into mush 

within a day, so you have to eat them immediately. They are a specialty of the region. //

Las mejores fresas que he probado... dulces y suaves, se ablandan en un día, así que necesité comerlas inmediatamente. Son una especialidad de esta región.

Market day // El mercado

Really fancy apple cake // 

Pastel de manzana y nata realmente elegante

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Como expliqué anteriormente, estoy explorando otros lugares potenciales donde podría vivir. Una posibilidad es Francia, y por esta razón la visité la semana pasada. Tal y como hice el año pasado en Hamburgo, en Francia, mi intención era cuidar una vivienda mientras vivía gratis. Solicité dos puestos en Francia durante el mes de abril, y recibí uno, en Toulouse.

Visité Toulouse hace un año, pero esa fue una visita turística, y esta vez quería pasar más tiempo explorando el día a día, y no los museos o las atracciones turísticas. Es por eso que tuve algunas citas con otros extranjeros y viajé en autobuses por toda la ciudad. Además, claro está, comí muchos pasteles franceses.

Me gusta el tamaño de Toulouse y que haya algunas universidades grandes, porque define muy bien su interés por lo académico y el gusto por lo cultural. También tiene un buen sistema de transporte público y el clima (al menos en primavera) es agradable. Ahora tengo que aprender más sobre las desventajas, como por ejemplo, los procesos legales.

Olives

t is no secret that I really miss gardening. I make do with my little terrace window boxes, but they certainly don´t scratch the itch of growing and storing your own food. However, I have managed a bit of this by collecting olives. My first winter here, I noticed that a nearby park had been built around an older, existing olive grove. I watched carefully, and noticed that in the late winter, the birds were feasting on the olives, so clearly the city did not pick them. I had seen people who did not look like locals (as evidenced by their headscarves) picking them, so the following year I did too.

I picked 5 kg of olives this fall. That is a LOT.

Processing olives to make them edible is time consuming work, as I knew from the one time I ordered a delivery of raw olives in the US. After picking, you sort by size and variety, prick or cut the skin of every fruit, then soak them in water. This water must be changed daily for 2-4 weeks, until the bitter compounds have been leached out sufficiently to make them edible. If you try to eat an olive off the tree, you will spit it out immediately - it is that astringent. After the many soaking, you marinate the olives in salt, vinegar, and flavourings, and in just a few more months, you have tasty olives to share. This is not for the faint of heart, or for those who can´t abide a bucket of olives in the kitchen for a month, but it definitely feels close to gardening.

Oviedo

The countryside is very near to the city of Oviedo. // El campo está muy cerca.

Oviedo is a small city in the north of Spain. When I made a list of the places I might like to live besides Madrid, it was one of the top choices. It´s quite close to the sea, which give it a maritime climate with lots more rain than Madrid. It is extremely picturesque, surrounded by mountains, and is filled with fountains and sculptures. Apropos of nothing, it was awarded the title, "Cleanest City in Spain", a fact that almost every person I talked to here told me about.

I went up there last week to explore. I followed my standard scouting mission methodology, which I use when visiting places I might like to live. I schedule coffee meetings with as many immigrants and expats as I can, to learn about their experiences and I take the bus to the end of the line to see what the countryside and outskirts of the city look like. Since culinary ingredients and bicycling are important to me, I always check out the local Asian grocery store and monitor how many bicycles I see as well.

I´m not sure this will be the location of my forever home - it´s simply too small. But it was a fun trip and it feels good to be exploring options.

Woody Allen is apparently a fan. // Woody Allen es un fanático de la ciudad. 

It´s a beautiful city, with lots of sculptures and fountains. // 

Es una ciudad muy chula, con muchas esculturas y fuentes.

Oviedo es una ciudad pequeña en el norte de España. Cuando hice una lista de lugares donde pudiera vivir además de Madrid, fue una de las primeras. Es cerca del mar, que da lugar a un clima suave con más lluvia que Madrid. Es pintoresco, con montañas, fuentes y escultura pública. Además, ha ganado el título a “La ciudad más limpia de España”, aspecto que casi todo ovetense me dijo.

Estuve allí la semana pasada para explorarla. Tengo un horario y metodología cuando visito lugares que podrían ser un posible hogar. Planeo citas con café con inmigrantes, para aprender sobre sus experiencias. También, voy en autobús al final de la línea del autobús, para ver los campos y los barrios de las afueras de la ciudad. Dado que cocinar es importante para mí, siempre voy a las tiendas de alimentación asiática. Al final, presto atención al uso de bicicletas.

No estoy segura de que Oviedo sea el un hogar para vivir siempre; es demasiado pequeño. Sin embargo, fue un viaje divertido y me alegra explorar mis posibilidades.

El Escorial

My friend L came to visit right after my brother vacated the guest premises (which is actually just a comfy mattress on my living room floor). We had big plans, but unfortunately L got sick and spent most of her Spanish holiday in bed. Before she succumbed, though, we visited El Escorial, a place I´ve been meaning to return to since my first visit in 2018.

El Escorial is a palace / monastery / basilica / hunting complex built by Phillip II in the late 1500s. This was during Spain´s Golden Age, and Phillip II was a very devout man who plowed a lot of those stolen riches from the American into this building. It is the largest Renaissance building in the world. (According to the English Wikipedia page, but not the Spanish one, so who knows what the truth is. In any case, it´s big). A friend who recently visited said they did the full tour and then visited the gardens and he tracked his walk at 5km (3 miles).

There was so much to look at, but after the library and basilica and the crypt (where all the Spanish royalty are buried), I started flagging during the second half, where all the living and entertaining rooms were. I have resolved to go back some time and simply sprint through the first half, so I´m fresh to enjoy the second half. We revived ourselves with coffee and cake, then headed home.

A stunning library, featuring gold books, achieved by gilding all the books pages and turning them wrong side around. // Hay una biblioteca impresionante que cubre de oro las tripas de los libros, razón por la cual están colocados del revés, para que se vean sus páginas bañadas en oro.

Its really, really big. // Es muy, muy grande.

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Mi amiga L me visitó inmediatamente después de que mi hermano fuera de mi habitación de invitados (que en realidad es un colchón en el suelo de mi sala). Tuvimos grandes planes, pero desafortunadamente, L se puso malo y pasó casi todo el viaje en encamado. Aunque, antes de esto, visitamos El Escorial, un lugar que visité por última vez en 2018.

Oficialmente, se llama El Real Monasterio de San Lorenzo de El Escorial; es un palacio, monasterio y casa de caza que fue construido por Felipe II a finales del siglo XVI. Esos años fueron parte del Siglo de Oro de España, y Felipe II fue un hombre piadoso que usaba una parte de los tesoros que robó del Nuevo Mundo para construir este palacio. La página web de Wikipedia en inglés dice que es el edificio renacentista más grande del mundo, pero la página web en español no dice nada, entonces no sé qué es la verdad. De todos modos, es muy extensa. Un amigo que lo visitó recientemente me dijo que su guía de los edificios y jardines juntos se midió a 5km.

Había muchísimo que ver, pero después de la biblioteca, la basílica y la cripta, estaba cansada y no prestaba mucha atención a los detalles de la segunda parte del palacio. Decidí volver e ir más deprisa durante la primera parte para poder disfrutar más de la segunda parte. Después, recargamos las pilas con café y pasteles y volvimos a casa.

Calçots

There are only a handful of Spanish dishes that I can appreciate, because most involve pork (aka jamón), fish, or at the very least meat broths. That´s why I usually content myself with enjoying Spanish ingredients, like olives, fresh-squeezed orange juice, or the massive and sweet red peppers. So when my friend T. suggested a meal of a local onions, I was very excited.

These onions, named calçots, are a Catalan specialty eaten in the spring. (By the way, Catalan in the language spoken in Barcelona, which is different enough to Spanish that I cannot understand it. It also uses the letter "ç" which finally explains why that letter is on my Spanish keyboard, even though Castillian, the Spanish that I speak, does not use it.) It´s quite an event to eat them, starting with the fact that we had to request the number of calçots that we wanted when making our reservation, and our lunch reservation was limited to a strict two hours so the next shift could eat. (Usually, once you book a table, it´s yours for the entire mealtime, which can be 2-4 hours.)

The actual eating is also a bit of a process. The calçots are grilled until they are black and charred. To eat, you peel off the outer burnt layer, revealing a smoky soft onion. After donning you plastic bib, you dip it into the romesco sauce sauce, which is made of roasted red peppers, tomato, almonds, garlic, and oil. Then you lower it into your mouth, because you´re not supposed to eat it with silverware.

They were delicious and definitely the highlight of the meal. We had very simple main dishes - my friends shared a sausage and a few slices of potato, and I had white bread topped with tomato paste and slices of manchego cheese. I hope I can make eating these a regular springtime tradition.

Eating lunch with friends can be an all-day affair here. After the three-course lunch, we went to a café for coffee. My friend T then needed to go, so A and I went to a third location for Aperol Spritzes, which are the taste of warm weather for me.

Adventures with my brother

My brother recently had to travel to Morocco for business and added a few days to his trip to hop over to Spain. It is a real treat when friends and family come to visit - not just because I enjoy spending time with them, but because having them see my life here and forming memories of US friends in Spain helps these two parts of my life feel more connected.

His trip was poorly timed, in that the weather was pretty awful. They were predicting strong winds and "mud rains", which are when storms brings lots of dust from the Sahara and dump it on us. So we cancelled out plans to hike in the nearby mountains and stayed closer to home, where we could time outings to breaks in the bad weather. He never saw the sun while he was here, but he lives in the Pacific Northwest, so that´s normal for him.

We hiked in a huge park west of the city, and bicycled another day. But most of the time we spent on projects, as that is my family´s idea of a good time. He helped set up an infrared reader for my heat pump, so I can automate it to turn on before I wake up. Spaniards do not run the heat during the night or while they are out of the house, and I was always cold while I waited the few hours in the morning for the chill to leave the brick and stone walls of my apartment. This was a piece of cake for my brother, who has automated his house so much that in the morning, the house turns on the lights and makes a cup of tea for him when he awakes.

I also decided to replace my oven. It has been the bane of my existence. On one hand, I know I am lucky to have any oven at all in a small Spanish apartment. On the other, it is tiny and lacks both thermostat and fan. Although I monitor it obsessively when baking, I have burnt many cakes in the last few years. I knew it would be hard to convince my landlady that the oven was faulty, so I just replaced it without her knowledge. I´m not sure she´ll notice, but if she does, who can complain about a slightly larger, better functioning appliance being left in the apartment?

My brother carried it through the city to the metro and then to my house.
No trip to the gym needed for him.

We discover that the oven is actually a toaster oven built into the wall.
As you can see, there is very little space available.

S had to modify the built-in cabinet a bit. The oven definitely burns fewer things now, but I still need to think of slightly more complicated things to bake so I can  really test it.

Lo siento, hoy no hay una entrada en español.

Languages // Idiomas

I´m still doing my language exchanges, many of which include coffee and a nice view. // Continúo con mis intercambios de idiomas, muchos de los cuales incluyen café y una bonita vista.

In January, I took my certification exam for B2 Spanish. As a reminder,Europe has six standard language levels, and this is the fourth one (read more here). It was an official examination of the Madrid Community language schools and it lasted more than four hours. The exam had a lot of parts: reading, listening, writing, talking, and interpreting written texts. I got my grades at the end of January, and I passed it with flying colors. Honestly, I was quite surprised, because I thought I would pass, but not with such good grades. Unfortunately, more than half of my class failed it, because it's a really rigorous exam.

Now that I have this level, I'm going to take a little break. Level B2 is good enough to study at the university or to do a lot of professional jobs. I still can't get involved in philosophical debates, and I still sound like a bit of an idiot when I talk, but I really understand life, and language, on a day-to-day basis, Plus, I can read books and newspaper articles and talk to old people at the bus stops.

Because of all of this free time, I've started studying French. I underestimated how difficult it would be to begin a new language at age 50. I'm taking some classes online with an asynchronous program, and a few private lessons with a teacher in Cameroon. I hope that after a few more months I can tell you my name, my age, and my favorite color. Right now I can only count to 20, so I'm 20 years old. :)

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En enero, hice mi prueba de certificación para el nivel B2 en español. Fue una prueba oficial de las escuelas de la Comunidad de Madrid (Escuelas Oficiales de Idiomas) y duró más de cuatro horas. Tiene muchas partes: de leer, de escuchar, de escribir, de hablar y de mediación de textos escritos. Recibí mis notas al final de enero, y lo aprobé con notas muy buenas. De hecho, me sorprendió, porque esperaba aprobarlo, pero no con tanta facilidad. Lamentablemente, más de la mitad de mi clase la suspendió, porque fue un examen muy riguroso.

Creo que demostrando este nivel, puedo hacer una pausa. El nivel B2 es suficiente para estudiar en la universidad, o para llevar a cabo diferentes oficios o profesiones. Todavía no puedo discutir sobre la filosofía, y sigo sonando como una idiota, pero me desenvuelo muy bien el día a día, puedo leer libros y artículos de periódicos, y hablar con los mayores en las paradas de autobuses.

Dado que tengo tanto tiempo libre, he empezado a estudiar francés. Subestimé lo difícil que sería empezar con un nuevo idioma cuando tienes cincuenta años. Tomo algunas clases online con un programa asíncrono y algunas clases privadas online con un profesor de Camerún. Espero que después de algunos meses más pueda decir mi nombre, mi edad y mi color favorito. Ahora mismo, solo puedo contar hasta 20, entonces, así que tengo solo veinte años : )