Achievement unlocked

Are there phrase transitions in language learning? It seems like children can practice the various parts of skills needed for something and the suddenly put them together in a rudimentary way. I think that happened to me, at least when it comes to understanding spoken Spanish. In the past few weeks, I have had multiple conversations with strangers on the street, and I almost always knew what was going on. In the past I understood maybe half of the conversation, and could not do much more than nod and interject a "Sí" or "Claro." But now I am giving people directions and having conversations with little old ladies at the bus stop. I can make eavesdropping in the Metro my new hobby - after all it's language practice!

Speaking is more of a slow, steady effort. I did quite well on my midterm exam, so I'm planning to continue studying the same way. Language practice with friends three times a week, Disney movies on the weekend, and flashcards as often as I can bear them. 

In other news, Madrid is delightful in the fall. I have discovered what might be my favorite park nearby, Juan Carlos I Park. It has everything: lakes, gardens, olive groves, and for now, gigantic animal sculptures that will be lit up for Christmas.

Festivals

´Tis the season of festivals here in Spain, apparently. I think they are a great way to learn about culture and history, so I´ve been participating when I can. And since they all seem to involve standing in crowds, my new-found height is put to good use. 

Almudena Day

Yesterday was a Madrid holiday, in honor of one of the two patrons saints, Our Lady of Almudena. She disappeared or reappeared at miraculous times (I´m not quite sure of the details). With some friends from class, I attended part of the outdoor mass held in front of the palace, and then I got to see my very first pageant. Living in a very Catholic country, I am sure these will soon bore me, but it was fun to stand in the large crowd and watch the statue, carried on an ornate platform by a team of churchgoers, slowly glide by. We trailed the procession for a while, the peeled off to head to the main plaza. Almudena is also turns out to be patron saint of bakers, and there is a sweet bread filled with cream associated with holiday. The city was handing out free servings, which we eventually secured, but only after some semi-heated arguments with little old ladies about whether we were cutting in line. (Which we were most definitely NOT doing. But Spain is turning out to be a country that takes standing in line very seriously.)

Halloween

Since everyone has been asking, I´ll just say that Halloween is barely a thing here, and is very much seen as an American import. I saw a handful of kids wearing costumes, but mainly it´s the equivalent of Cinco de Mayo in the US - an excuse for adults to go to the bar and drink, with or without costumes.

A royalty sighting

October 31st was important for a different reason - it was the 18th birthday of Princess Leonor, who will inherit the Spanish throne after her father dies. Democracy is quite new here, and one of the ways they protect it is the tradition that the heir publicly swears loyalty to the constitution in front of the Parliament on their 18th birthday. I happened to be downtown that day and got to see her procession from the palace to Parliament - she is in the antique car, accompanied by the royal guard. I was just tickled pink by the whole thing, both because the presence of a royal family is so foreign to me, and because I live in the capital and can just stumble upon things like this. 

All Soul´s Day

November 1st is All Soul´s Day, a national holiday. I don´t have any family graves to visit or tidy, and the only other activity seemed to be attending mass. It turns out that my interest in experiencing local traditions doesn´t include attending outdoor masses held in cemeteries if it is cold and rainy, so I basically skipped this holiday.

Luz Madrid

A few weeks ago, they invited a lot of artists to create light and music installations for local landmarks. A video would capture this much better, since the lights were timed to change to the music. It was cold and rainy that day too, which seems to be a theme in November.

Who am I?

Someone I have been, and continue to be - a person who likes to drink coffee on the terrace

I've been thinking about identity a lot during my move to Spain. Identity is a construct that was studied a lot in my field. Although I'm no expert, it is I can roughly describe it as the type of person you see yourself as. You construct this picture from how other people treat you, what arenas you are successful in, whether people in that group treat you as one of them, etc. Some of my identities are a white person, cisgender female, a physicist, a good cook, a cyclist, a person good with money, even a Trekkie.
I knew that moving to a new country would mess with some of those identities. For example, I think of myself as an intelligent person who is mostly good at navigating the practical components of life. When I arrived, I could barely speak, so no one else could see those smarts, and I had so many experiences, such as not understanding the bus system or not knowing how to get internet installed, that I felt like someone who didn't know how to adult. I also expected that my American identity would become far more salient, although that turns out to be not quite right - I'm not an American here, I'm simply a foreigner, in a group with many other people who can't communicate well and don't know how the system works. Plus, it turns out that many people think I'm French, even if they haven't heard my first name.

But other identity changes were completely unexpected. For example, I see myself as a navigator, since I'm always the person in the group with the map telling everyone where to go next. But here, I seem to have lost my sense of direction. I don't know if it's the multitude of non-parallel streets, or if it's because most street signs are either high up on building sides or non-existent, but I get lost about a hundred times more frequently than in other countries I have lived in. Similarly, I have always been a short, petite person. I didn't even think of this as something that could change, except if I gained weight. But suddenly, in Spain, I am almost of average height for a woman. I can see the tops of many people's heads! And because the Spanish are also very thin, I feel of average weight or maybe a little over. There's nothing wrong with being tall or short or skinny or fat, it's just that I hadn't realized how culturally constructed it would be.

All of these changes are less disorienting as the months roll by. I already feel better about my ability to navigate things like the bureaucracy or the Metro system, and someday I will feel as confident about the subjunctive case as I do about quantum mechanics.